Running gear and Brakes
VAG Suspension spring codes
Hopefully the attached three pages will be of use to you, although they do not show the actual spring rates, only the colour codes.
They were taken from the VAG ‘Workshop Manual – Golf, Jetta, Scirocco – Running Gear’, May 1985 Edition which superseded the March 1979 Edition.
A Bulletin at the back states that on the 16v, the front coil springs are shorter and stiffer, and due to this the front of the car is approximately 10mm lower.
Colour Code either 1 x Grey or 2 x Grey – Part Number 533 411 105.
The shock absorbers on the 16v have a different characteristic and are stiffer -Part Number 533 413 031.
Rear coil springs on the 16v are unchanged.
Colour Code 3 x Yellow – Part Number 531 511 105 A.
The shock absorbers on the 16v have a different characteristic and are stiffer -Part Number 533 513 033.
Thanks to Pete GLi
All rights reside with the author, post for instructional use only
Changing Front Brake Pads
This is a guide to changing the brake pads. This was on a Mk2 Scala – with help from Ant it did have vented disks, back to solid now, as vented wore out!
I just acquired some Mitex pads, that have barely been used, so I decided to change, as the others only had about 4mm left.
Tools needed:
6mm Allen Key
11mm Spanner
Wheel nut wrench
Jack
1. Loosen the wheel bolts, apply the handbrake and jack up the car.
Scirocco on jack - remember to loosen wheel bolts first
2. Remove the wheel
Replacing a broken steering lock assembly
[b]Tools required:[/b]
24mm socket & ratchet
deep 22mm socket for hitting things
Medium flat blade screwdriver
Small philips screwdriver
Molegrips
Allen key – 6mm (I think)
hammer/weighty object.
[b]Parts required:[/b]
Steering lock housing (VW: 155 905 851)
steering lock barrel (VW: 191 905 855)
[b]Materials required:[/b]
LM Grease or similar
100mm cable tie
So here’s the internal damage:
16v master cylinder & servo upgrade – how to with photographs
In the spirit of upgrading brakes, here’s a revamp of a how to I did a while back when I did the servo and master-cylinder:
[b]Parts Sources[/b]
Master Cylinder:
Not sure where mine came from, it was bought as new from a show, its got a Passat part number, but it’s unclear which model or year (Its dubious origin came back to bite me later though as it wasn’t an easy fit). You can get them from late mk2 (16v) and mk3 golfs, though these often have 2 outlets instead of 4.
Master Cylinder:
Not sure where mine came from, it was bought as new from a show, its got a Passat part number, but it’s unclear which model or year (Its dubious origin came back to bite me later though as it wasn’t an easy fit). You can get them from late mk2 (16v) and mk3 golfs, though these often have 2 outlets instead of 4.
Servo:
This came from a scrapped mk2 16v golf, it also came with master cylinder (2 oulet only) and an epansion tank that I needed.
This came from a scrapped mk2 16v golf, it also came with master cylinder (2 oulet only) and an epansion tank that I needed.
[b]Preparation.[/b]
This is an increadibly messy job. You’ll need tons of newspaper & rags for soaking up spilt brake fluid, and also a means of storing and disposing of about 1 litre of old brake fluid. If you’re cracking the fuel system on a K-jet engine for access, be prepared for all the mess that involves too (i.e. Rags and newspaper for petrol spills).
This is an increadibly messy job. You’ll need tons of newspaper & rags for soaking up spilt brake fluid, and also a means of storing and disposing of about 1 litre of old brake fluid. If you’re cracking the fuel system on a K-jet engine for access, be prepared for all the mess that involves too (i.e. Rags and newspaper for petrol spills).
A good brake bleeding kit is a bonus. I use an Easy-bleed type kit, plumbed into a flat spare tyre generating about 1 bar (approx 10psi) of pressure.
Be prepared to jack the car, both for access underneath it (unless you’re really slim) and for easier bleeding of the brakes.
Tools needed are fairly minimal. 10, 11, & 13mm spanners will do for most of the brake components, A dedicated brake union spanner (sometimes called a crowsfoot) with 10 & 11mm ends could be useful on tight joints. A 17mm spanner will fit around the clevis for adjustment, an Ajustable spanner will help for odd instances when you can’t find the one you want. A ratchet set with a 13mm socket is useful, but not essentail, as most access it too tight for it. Long flatbladed screwdrivers are always useful, both for leverage and prodding and poking stuff.
Brake servo and master cylinder upgrade
Upgrading the Servo and Master Cylinder. Applicable for both Mk1 and Mk2 Scirocco.
Parts Sources
Master Cylinder:
Not sure where mine came from, it was bought as new from a show, its got a Passat part number, but it’s unclear which model or year (Its dubious origin came back to bite me later though as it wasn’t an easy fit). You can get them from late mk2 (16v) and mk3 golfs, though these often have 2 outlets instead of 4.
Servo:
This came from a scrapped mk2 16v golf, it also came with master cylinder (2 oulet only) and an epansion tank that I needed.
Preparation.
This is an increadibly messy job. You’ll need tons of newspaper & rags for soaking up spilt brake fluid, and also a means of storing and disposing of about 1 litre of old brake fluid. If you’re cracking the fuel system on a K-jet engine for access, be prepared for all the mess that involves too (i.e. Rags and newspaper for petrol spills).
› Continue reading
Changing a gearbox and clutch
Gearbox and clutch replacement – Paulc
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04807reduced.jpg[/img]
Always worth taking a good number of pics of the engine bay before you start, it will solve a number of problems like ‘what cable crosses where’ later on:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04809reduced.jpg[/img]
1. Soak all the bolts you’re going to undo in WD40 or similar.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04813reduced.jpg[/img]
2. Remove battery (negative, then positive terminal, then 13mm bolt holding it in).
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04814reduced.jpg[/img]
3. Drain coolant, typically by undoing bottom hose at the water pump end.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04816reduced.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04817reduced.jpg[/img]
4. Undo electrical connections on radiator. There will be a thermo switch (for the fan) and the fan’s power connection itself
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04824reduced.jpg[/img]
5. Undo remaining connections (top hose, overflow hose to header tank) and unbolt mounts at front/top. Remove radiator.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04826reduced.jpg[/img]
(Strictly, you don’t need to remove the radiator, but you do need to disconnect the cooling lines so it may as well come out and make life a lot easier).
6. If you’re coolant is in good condition, it can be saved and reused. Be careful to place the container you’ve drained it into, close enough to trip over later on in the job, but far enough away to be out of reach when more coolant comes out the car.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04828reduced.jpg[/img]
7. Undo the inlet pipework clips and remove
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04829reduced.jpg[/img]
8. Including the oil breather pipe
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04830reduced.jpg[/img]
9. Undo the fuel inlet and return connections from the metering head
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04832reduced.jpg[/img]
10. then lift the metering head up. I found the easiest way is to separate the bottom of the airbox and completely remove this, then lay the metering head on top of the engine so you don’t need to disconnect the injector lines.
11. Undo connections on starter motor. There will be a 4mm2 solenoid lead, a large lead directly to the battery (13mm nut) and 2x bolts, which are normally 6mm female hex. On the end of one of these, is a 17mm nut.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04833reduced.jpg[/img]
12. The bolts for the front engine mount (strictly, a torque reaction link) are normally tight, so you might need to use a breaker bar. Undo these and remove all of the front engine mount.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04834reduced.jpg[/img]
13. This is a job for tomorrow: my front panel is in serious need to welded repair!
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04836reduced.jpg[/img]
14. Sweep up the remains of your front panel, if needs be
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04837reduced.jpg[/img]
15. Disconnect the gear linkages and swing them out the way, this can be done from above or below.
16. Raise the car onto axle stands (you’re looking for enough clearance to get underneath the car to undo stuff, and to pull out the gearbox later on from underneath). Undo the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04839reduced.jpg[/img]
17. Unbolt the rear engine mount. The engine/gearbox will tilt a little, when this happens, but its all cool.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04841reduced.jpg[/img]
18. Check you have the top engine/transmission bolts in place! (I didn’t, and its the second VW I’ve come across which is missing them) Then unbolt the 19mm bolt from underneath.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04842reduced.jpg[/img]
19. Unbolt the inner CV joints from the gearbox (diff) flanges, its M8 12 spline. The easiest way to do it is with an impact gun, but if you don’t have one, a trick you can do is to use a trolley jack under one wheel, then put the car in gear and undo the bolts, one at a time, from the other side (take it out of gear and move the wheel around 60 deg)
20. Using an engine crane from the side, support the weight of the engine/transmission from the lifting point.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04844reduced.jpg[/img]
21. If your top engine/trans bolts are really tight, now is the time to loosen them.
22. Undo the transmission side mount. If you got step 20 right, it should just slide out nicely. If not, you might have to make a little adjustment to the height you’re holding up the engine/transmission.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04846reduced.jpg[/img]
23. Tie up the driveshafts with wire. You can tie the right driveshaft to the inlet manifold so it goes down when the engine tilts down. You can tie the left driveshaft to the brake lines, so long as its only the driveshaft itself which is being supported.
24. Lower the engine/transmission to a tilt, making sure that nothing stretches, snags, or is leaned upon too much.
25. Double check all disconnections are done (for example reversing light switch wiring). Undo the speedo drive cable from the gearbox, I find they often stick and its handy to do this once lowered, to give better access to lever it off. Be careful not to drop the drive cog into the ‘box (lift it stright up) and don’t drop the bolt into the gearbox, when you replace it onto the box!
26. Undo the top engine/trans bolts
27. Wiggle off the gearbox and catch. I find that an old tyre is ideal to ‘catch’ the gearbox on. Then withdraw from underneath the car.
28. The clutch on a VW is inside, not outside, the flywheel. Undo the 9x bolts holding the flywheel onto the pressure plate, they’re 9mm 12 sided so I needed to obtain a socket like this.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04847reduced.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04848reduced.jpg[/img]
29. Pull off your flywheel, it should come off with a wiggle. Inspect your clutch friction disc, now is the time to go to the shops and buy one if you need it. Also inspect your inner CV joints, since you’re going to the shops. Also on your shopping list could be a big tin of brake/clutch cleaner.
To be continued…
/a139/paul_c2/Dsc03436reduced.jpg[/img]I forgot to mention, step 12½ which is to disconnect the heater (coolant) lines from the engine, disconnect the pipes from the metal pipe on the engine and the flange on the side and catch the coolant as it comes out. Beware if you don’t have a plug on the hole in the bellhousing, its ideally placed to go into there!
Anyway, after returning from the shops with these:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04850reduced.jpg[/img]
30. I removed the cover and spring clip, it just clips in so thin nose pliers are all it takes to unclip.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04851reduced.jpg[/img]
31. This reveals 6x 17mm bolts which you need to undo, to remove the pressure plate from the crankshaft. Once again I used an impact driver, but there is a little trick you can do if you don’t have one. Bear in mind these bolts are one use only, since they are stretch bolts and they are also loctite’d in place.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04853reduced.jpg[/img]
32. The pressure plate is a close fit but will eventually wiggle off, to reveal this.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04854reduced.jpg[/img]
33. I took the opportunity to remove the plate too (3x 10mm nuts) and look/clean up behind there. Its handy to check the main crank oil seal, this is an ideal time to find leaks if any, and to replace it.
34. Refit the new pressure plate with the new bolts, which are supplied in the LUK kit.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04857reduced.jpg[/img]
Note that these bolts are torqued to 55lbf ft, 75Nm.
Here is a pic to show how to remove/replace these bolts without the impact gun:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/9A/Dsc02956reducedandhighlighted.jpg[/img]
Here’s the easy way to do CVJ bolts:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums
35. Clean up the new gearbox (if you’re swapping it) or the original if you’re not (optional step). Note the green spray bottle isn’t alloy wheel cleaner but brake/clutch cleaner.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04866reduced.jpg[/img]
36. Also if swapping boxes, check the bolt-on stuff, for example gear change linkage bracket, transmission mount, and also check the little dowels which interface between engine and box. If you have a dowel in both engine and trans, it won’t fit when you join them!
(This is me actually doing step 34, tightening the pressure plate bolts, with a torque wrench whilst on the car. Note the C spanner between and engine bolt and pressure plate-flywheel bolt, to prevent the engine rotating. If you need to turn the engine a little, its a 19mm bolt on the other end).
37. A new pressure plate is normally coated with grease/oil to prevent corrosion, so it needs to be cleaned off otherwise your first 200 miles are very smoky with a slipping clutch!
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04871reduced.jpg[/img]
38. Refit the flywheel observing the dowels to locate it properly, and tightening the 9mm 12 sided bolts (or you may have 11mm (?) 6 sided bolts in some locations) to 20Nm. (This is low enough that the engine normally doesn’t turn. Don’t forget to put the friction disc in, with the most sticking out part facing the gearbox. Note also the yellow clutch aligning tool.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04872reduced.jpg[/img]
39. (No pics) refit the gearbox to the engine. This is a right pain, I’d suggest you use a strong board so you can balance the trans on a trolley jack at the correct angle, and you can raise/lower the engine as needs be on the engine crane. I used a long rod through one of the starter motor bolt holes, to help. But its just a case of get them aligned, wiggle and turn the engine over a few degrees, to engage the input shaft into the friction disc.
As you’re swinging the engine/trans up, ensure the CVJs are positioned so they engage into the flanges (or are able to). I also routinely clean out and repack the CVJs with grease when I swap a clutch or gearbox.
40. ‘Refitting is a reverse of removal!!!’ but basically I did the underneath stuff:
* rear engine/trans mount
* torque up the lower rear engine/trans bolt to 55Nm
* refit downpipe to manifold
* torque up the lower rear engine/trans bolt to 55Nm
* refit downpipe to manifold
41. Here’s a little tip to tightening (torque up to 45Nm) the driveshaft bolts. With the car on axle stands, push a trolley jack under one wheel, then engage any gear, this will lock the other wheel. To rotate the other wheel, disengage the gear.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04874reduced.jpg[/img]
42. Last job while you’re underneath, (optional) is to drain and refill the gearbox oil. Drain plug is under the diff (17mm female hex):
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04876reduced.jpg[/img]
then refit it and fill as much as you can through the side level plug.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04878reduced.jpg[/img]
The 5 speed boxes need 2.0 litres, however the earlier (before 8 Sept 1987) cases have the hole in the original place planned for 4 speeds, which means the box will only accept approx 1.5 litres. So you need to add a bit more through the speedo cable hole:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04880reduced.jpg[/img]
43. At this point you can optionally lower the car to the ground, although I prerfer to leave it on stands so I can reach the coolant and any other connections underneath, and also once finished, check I can smoothly engage all 5 gears and reverse.
44. Reconnect everything else you disconnected, fill with coolant, etc
Auto to Manual Conversion
This one comes up more than you think on the Scirocco Register forums, so, having done the conversion, here is what you need to know. Some parts are vital and some are recommended. I recommend using a complete donor car for this conversion.
Vital
Manual Gearbox & Clutch
Gear stick & selector shafts, rods and brackets
Manual Steering Column/pedal bracket. Pre-1984 cars can also benefit from a post-1984 pedal mounted brake switch on the later brackets.
Manual Steering Rack (has brackets for the manual gear rods that the original auto Rack does not have)
Throttle cable
Clutch cable
Recommended
Manual car engine wiring loom. The starter motor on a manual car is on the front of the gearbox, on the auto it is on the back. It is possible to elongate the starter motor wiring but again for originality you may wish to use the factory loom which is the correct length.
Method
This is a recommended method, which I found to be the easiest way. › Continue reading