Archive for March, 2009

Gearbox codes explained

Gearbox resources -
 
Gearbox codes explained
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/VW_020_transmission.shtml
 

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Monday, March 23rd, 2009 Running gear and Brakes No Comments

Engine codes and conversion options

There’s been a heap of questions on engine conversions, so here’s a rough guide as to what’s what, what’s good, and what’s not.

I’ll refer to each engine by it’s first 2 letters of the engine number.

Stock Engines for Mk1
some of these may appear in an early Mk2:
I think there’s some 1.1 and 1.3l engines that were also fitted, but if you’ve got one, keep it cos it’s a bit of a European novelty Laughing

JB – 1.5L 8v Carb Approx 70BHP
Found in mk1′s and mk2′s til ’82
Simple upgrade to 1.8 EX Carb engine

FR – 1.6L 8v Carb Approx 85BHP
Found on GLS Model
Simple upgrade to 1.8 EX Carb engine

EG 1.6i, 8v Approx 110BHP, All Mk1 injection models and Mk2 until 1983 
This engine can compete happily with the 1.8 injection engines thus a KR would be a starting point for an upgrade as the fueling system is similar.

Stock Engines for Mk2
EW – 1.6l 8v carb approx 75BHp
Easy upgrade is to an EX as very little needs to be changed.

EX – 1.8l 8v carb approx 90BHp
Easy upgrade would be a KR on side-draught carbs. Fuel injection requires new pump and fuel lines.

DX – 1.8l 8v K-jet injection approx 110BHp
Easy upgrade would be a KR running K-jet injection.

KR – 1.8l 16v K-jet Injection approx 135BHp – Import (LHD) only
› Continue reading

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Friday, March 20th, 2009 Engines 2 Comments

Auto to Manual Conversion

This one comes up more than you think on the Scirocco Register forums, so, having done the conversion, here is what you need to know.  Some parts are vital and some are recommended.  I recommend using a complete donor car for this conversion.

 

Vital

Manual Gearbox & Clutch

Gear stick & selector shafts, rods and brackets

Manual Steering Column/pedal bracket. Pre-1984 cars can also benefit from a post-1984 pedal mounted brake switch on the later brackets.

Manual Steering Rack (has brackets for the manual gear rods that the original auto Rack does not have)

Throttle cable

Clutch cable

 

Recommended 

Manual car engine wiring loom.  The starter motor on a manual car is on the front of the gearbox, on the auto it is on the back.  It is possible to elongate the starter motor wiring but again for originality you may wish to use the factory loom which is the correct length.

 

 

Method

This is a recommended method, which I found to be the easiest way.  › Continue reading

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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 Running gear and Brakes 3 Comments

Mk1 Balljoints

 Mk 1 owners, particulalry of ‘70s vehicles will find that these earlier cars used a 15mm steering balljoint (attached to the end of the wishbones, over which slides the upright/hub) which can now sometimes be a challenge to obtain.

 

When replacing the balljoints on my late 1977 GLS I found that the VW dealer could only order the later, larger 17mm type.  The uprights of my car would not fit these later balljoints.  When taking the incorrect sized balljoints back to the dealer, the parts chap scanned through ETKA and discovered that all mk1 chassis vehicles back to 1974 have the 17mm items listed for them and the 15mm listed as unavialable.  I also tried several specialists but they also could only obtain the later 17mm size balljoints. 

The Mk1 owner is presented with two options here:

 

·          Try to track down some correct 15mm balljoints.

 

·          Convert the car to the later 17mm balljoints by using late Mk1/all Mk2 uprights/hubs, pinchbolts and bearings.  Wishbones remained unchanged throught Mk1/Mk2 and there are no issues with outer CV joint fitment but the correct size wheel bearings for the later hubs will need to be used.

 

Luckily, I managed to track some 15mm balljoints down at a back-street auto factors, my set had been on the shelf for a good ten years!  Some auto factors are able to order some but supply seems to be hit and miss, so best to stockpile. 

I’m not sure when the changover was enacted so if anybody can supply the information I will update this FAQ article.  Also for a lead on a regular supply of 15mm balljoints!

Contributor: Forum user The Autoad

 

 

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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 Running gear and Brakes No Comments

Identify that Scirocco component

Here is online version of ETKA, the VW parts catalogue.

This one is free to use once you register (excuse the pun) and is fully searchable by date of vehicle.  Its an Eastern European version though, so a disclaimer is best expressed here, but in terms of printing it out, identifying part numbers and suchlike to take to your VW dealer, its quite useful.

I also find this one useful when determining such things as what odd little vacum pipe fits where and where does that widget go…

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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 Buying 2 Comments

Brake upgrades

First step has to be an overhaul/service – EBC or pagid fast road pads won’t fade as quickly, and fresh brake fluid (stick to dot4) will help the feel of the system, as will adjusting the rear drums to take up all the slack.

Get in the engine bay and you can dial out some of the play in the pedal linkage by cracking the locknuts on the pushrod and adjusting that (ISTR the offside has reverse thread so just spin the rod to add/remove tension).

All of this will cost you little £s and can seriously transform the feel and performance of the braking setup before you really get serious with changing stuff.

The next step towards improved braking performance beyond this would be 256mm disc conversion. Irritatingly it is fast becoming the hardest to find parts for, as donor vehicles are scarce, and most breakers know what you’re after.

The 256mm conversion gives you the 16v setup (for the Scirocco and Golf) up front and does this using either Audi or Vauxhall parts. The key is finding the correct caliper carriers as they need to be sized to take the Girling 54 caliper (common as muck) yet fit onto the mk1 bearing housing. Some Audis had similar bolt spacing on their front bearing housings:

Audi 80 quattro (83 to 85)
Audi 90 5-cylinder (85 to 87)
Audi Coupe 5-cylinder (85 to 88)

And of course the (genuine) 16v GTX rocco

Then all you need is the calipers discs and pads. › Continue reading

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Thursday, March 12th, 2009 Running gear and Brakes No Comments

How to get power from your Fuse Box

Sounds simple enough, until you look behind it. Laughing

Thankfully a lot of the empty relay slots have access to useful circuits.

Permanant live (AKA Circuit 30)

Relay 1 pin 2 (unfused)
Relay 2 Pin 2 (unfused)
Relay 5 pin 4 -via fuse 1 (radiator fan 30A)

Switched Live (AKA Circuit 15)

Relay 2 pin 4 (unfused)
Relay 3 Pin 5 (unfused)
Relay 4 Pin 4 (unfused)
Relay 6 pin 4 – via fuse 18 (various shit 10A or 15A)
Relay 7 pin 2 – this is acutally x-relief so goes off during cranking.

Relay 2 is mostly used by fuel pump relay, or carb manifold heater relay, but if you’ve got a conversion this may be free.
Relay 6 is for the dual horns, so poverty spec cars will just have a jumper.
Relay 7 is for front fogs, so if you’ve binned the lights, you can use the relay slot for something else.

The rest are mostly used, unless you don’t have wipers Smile

Other useful stuff that appears on the empty relay slots are listed below:

Relay 2 pin 7 goes live when the starter is engaged.

Relay 2 pin 5 and Relay 4 pin 1 both have a strobed feed from the coil, good for aftermarket tachos or shift lights.

You can use the multiple earth points to the right of the fusebox for grounding all your electrical toys, but if you want more, here’s the earth connections for all the relays:

Relay 1 Pin 1
Relay 2 Pin 1
Relay 3 Pin 6
Relay 4 Pin 6
Relay 5 Pin 1
Relay 6 Pin 2 (not always connected)
Relay 7 Pin 1
Relay 8 Pin 1
Relay 10 pin 4
Relay 11 Pin 4
Relay 12 Pin 4

Obviously the last 4 or 5 won’t be available to you, unless you’re getting creative with the wiring.

Contributor: Forum user SkyRocketeer

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Thursday, March 12th, 2009 Electrical No Comments

Interior water leaks?

LEAKS-
got a wet carpet?
check these areas first -
 
front scuttle area – check heater motor seal, missing grommets under windscreen and drain holes on inner wing 
rear lights
boot/boot lock seals
badges – the clips that hold  
rear side windows can allow water in – give them both a gentle push inwards too to ensure they are properly sealing
Door membranes, these can split or lose adhesion – remove the door card to check

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Thursday, March 12th, 2009 Bodywork, Trim & Paint 3 Comments

wheels

wheely useful

Thursday, March 12th, 2009 Wheels and Tyres No Comments