…back to part 1
Engines
Engines are shared with thousands of other vehicles from the VAG range, so are of good pedigree and long lasting. The straight four 8-valve Scirocco engine can run well into 100,000 miles before a major overhaul is necessary. Long life is made easier by regular oil and filter changes (around every 5000 miles). Oil filters should have a non return valve -genuine VW filters always do.

GTX
Bottom ends are extremely strong and only fail in isolated cases. The cylinder heads are similarly hard wearing but can often suffer from valve-stem oil seal failure, identified by blue tinted smoke from the exhaust. Mk2′s until mid 1984 have solid lifter tappets which can make their presence known by become noisy and clattery, regular oil changes will help to keep them in check but adjustment or replacement is possible with the right tools. Post mid 1984 the tappets were hydraulic. The Cambelt should be checked every 5000 miles and replaced every 60,000 miles. Maintenance is fairly straightforward with most service parts easily accessed. The cylinder head and oil sump can be removed with the engine in situ. Routine servicing should be carried out around every 6000 miles.
Check all coolant items. The radiator should be in good shape with little damage to the fins and not leaking. All hoses should be free of splits. Hoses are easy to obtain and replace. Water pumps are usually hard wearing but can fail, look for telltale crystalised coolant around the outlets and coolant weeping. Thermostats are located at the bottom of the water pump. Antifreeze should contain corrosion inhibitors and be used all year round, with flushing and refilling every three to five years depending on vehicle usage.
Exhaust
Up until mid 1984, exhaust manifolds are connected to a downpipe via six bolts, ensuring that replacing a downpipe is fairly straightforward. Post mid 1984 VW decided to clamp the manifold in place with two clips, which can be a nightmare to replace without the correct tool. Genuine VW systems are long lasting and the system itself consists of a downpipe, a middle box, an over-pipe that clears the rear axle and a rear box. Connections, clamps and rubber hangers ensure easy replacement. Manifolds do have a reputation for cracking but this may be exaggeration in practice.
Transmission and Drive Gear
The four and five speed rod-change gearboxes are well documented to be very hardwearing. Synchromesh can be a tad stiff with first and second gears from cold but should be ok once the car has warmed up. If persistent, a gearbox rebuild may be on the cards. Sloppy gear change can be rectified by replacing the nylon bushes that are at the pivot points of the selector rods. This is an easy DIY job. Clutches can last beyond 70,000 miles and well into 100,000 miles. A slipping clutch will be the most obvious sign that it needs replacing but a crunchy reverse selection may be a sign of poor clutch adjustment. › Continue reading
Tags: Bodywork, Trim & Paint, clutch, electrics, engine, Gearbox, Mk2, Parts, Running gear and Brakes, scirocco, suspension, Trim & Paint

Mk2 Scirocco
Launched in March 1981 in Europe and reaching the UK in mid 1982, the second generation of the Scirocco stretched the coupe with a hatchback concept further and was designed in-house by VW. The chassis was taken directly over from the Mk1 Scirocco meaning that the wheelbase and track dimensions remained the same as the outgoing model but the body was enlarged giving more room inside and increased luggage space: 14.6 cu ft with the rear seat in place, rising to 42.2 cu ft with the rear seat folded. Aerodynamic design was improved with the Mk2 Scirocco having a drag coefficiency of 0.38 (an improvement of 10% over the Mk1) with the high rear spoiler being an integral element to slippery shape. More details found in the design history article.
Specification
The Mk2 was subject to specification and trim changes regularly throughout its life but the alterations were largely cosmetic. In the UK, initially three models were offered, the CL, GL and GTi, all with single wiper and small rear spoiler.
The CL had a 1457cc capacity carburettor engine, four speed gearbox and 155×13 tyres. The CL specification included cloth interior, laminated glass, rear wash/wipe, heated rear window and three speed heater fan.
The GL was powered by a 1588cc 70bhp carburettor engine with a 4+E (E for ‘economy’) and 175/70×13 tyres on 5 inch alloy wheels. In addition to the CL it was equipped with fog lamps inboard of the main headlamps, headlamp washers, seat height adjusters, internally adjustable door mirrors and velour interior.

Mk2 GTI
The GTi was launched with the 1588cc 110bhp fuel injection engine with a top speed of 117mph, surpassing the contemporary Golf GTi. Standard equipment included an oil to air cooler, ventilated brake discs, anti-roll bars front and rear, five speed sporting ratio gearbox, 5.5×13 ‘nine spoke’ alloy wheels, sports seats and oil temperature gauge. Unlike the GL the inner lamps on the GTi were additional high beams, with fog lamps hung under the bumper. The GTi was also identified by the legend ‘SCIROCCO’ lettering underneath the spoiler on the rear screen.
In 1983 the Scirocco was given the new range of higher torque engines from VAG and increased specification: the CL gained the 1595cc 75bhp engine, 4+E gearbox and 175/70 tyres; the GL the 1781cc 90bhp unit, anti-roll bars and alloy wheel width was increased to 5.5 inches; and the GTi the 1781cc 112bhp fuel injected engine. The GTi also gained a tilt/slide sunroof, split folding rear seat and MFA computer that monitored average mileage, journey time, oil temperature and external ambient temperature amongst other things. The oil temp gauge was therefore changed to a volt meter on the GTi. Late 1983 also saw the introduction of two windscreen wipers replacing the mono wiper across the entire range. › Continue reading
Tags: Mk2, specification
…back to part 1
Suspension and steering

Mk1s on test track
Suspension consists of Macpherson struts with wishbones at the front and trailing arms at the rear. Springs can snap is rusty and the dampers are oil or gas filled. Make sure the formers are not leaking. Check the suspension top mounts for signs of fatigue, if they are hard and brittle and the car crashes on bumps then its time to replace them. Rear top mounts have a much easier time and very rarely need replacing.
The suspension can be invigorated by replacing the top mounts and the wishbone and rear axle beam bushes. The bushes do have a shelf life and take a lot of punishment. Replacements are cheap and wishbones can be purchased already bushed, otherwise a press is required to remove and refit the wishbone bushes. Rear beam pivot bushes will always require a press to replace them. Bushes can be upgraded to poly replacements if originality is not hugely important.
Steering should be light and precise and it is worth checking wheel alignment and tracking before consigning the rack to the bin. The rack itself is long lasting but if steering is sloppy it may need replacing. Steering rack mounting bushes can also perish and will benefit from being replaced. No Mk1s left the factory with power steering.
Fueling
Petrol consumption figures are quite frugal, even in the injected models. 35mpg is easily achievable, meaning not much of a headache at the pumps. All Mk1s will run on unleaded petrol. Most owners recommend putting super unleaded in these older cars as the higher octane rating is kinder to the engines.
When buying a Mk1, always try to ensure that the car is started from cold. If it hesitates to fire up and idle smoothly during warm up suspect the carburettor or on injection models the cold start valve (5th injector). On carb models the original auto-choke Pierburg or Zenith units can become troublesome with age and many vehicles have had their replaced with the simpler and more efficient Weber carburettor with a manual choke. Both carb and fuel injection models should idle at around 900rpm once past the warm-up period. Misfiring on fuel injected cars is more likely to be tired spark plugs or faulty HT leads rather than injection system problems.
Throttle response should be smooth and without resistance -if it isn’t smooth inspect the condition of the cable and the mechanism at the carb or throttle body.
The weak link of the mk1 fuel sytem is the metal filler neck which runs from the rear quarter to the tank. Due to the proximity of the wheel arch this area is a notorious rust trap as the rear wheel throws salt and muck and road debris against the filler neck enabling corrosion to take hold and eventually pit the neck with holes, leading to contamination of the fuel. › Continue reading
Tags: Bodywork, Trim & Paint, interior, mk1, Parts, scirocco, Trim & Paint

TS -pre launch '73
Introduced in 1974 and based around the floorplan and mechanicals of the Volkswagen Golf, the handsome Scirocco coupe was actually launched six months before the Golf to iron out teething issues before commencement of the high volume hatchback. More details found in the design history article.
Specification
The first incarnations of the Scirocco were driven by the new VW/Audi 1571cc overhead camshaft engine coupled with an all-synchromesh 4 speed gearbox or 3 speed automatic driving the front wheels and fuelled by a carburettor. Like other German cars of the 1970s, Sciroccos were relatively well equipped, the first 1974 TS models sporting 13″ alloy wheels, quadruple halogen headlamps, twin two speed wipers, reversing lamps, rear heated window, reclining front seats with integral headrests, full carpeting and a centre console all as standard specification.
In mainland Europe, the Scirocco was also offered with VW’s smaller block engines, initially the 1 litre unit and later the 1.3 engine. Externally these cars are identified by large square rectangular headlamps rather than the quad round lamps and 13″ steel wheels. These are few and far between these days.
For October 1975, the engine capacity had been increased to 1588cc and for aerodynamic reasons the twin windscreen wipers were replaced with a distinctive single arm that swept the entire screen. This would be a Scirocco feature and be carried over into the early versions of the Mk2.
In October 1976, for the 1977 model year, the TS was replaced by the GLS. The GLS was mechanically identical but featured interior and trim revisions of vinyl and cord upholstery (replacing the tartan of the TS), part carpeted door cards, laminated windscreen, tinted windows, standard rear wash/wipe and revised control stalks, steering wheel and ventilation system. Externally the GLS carried a plastic front spoiler.

'76 GTI
A year later major external revisions were made to the indicators, wrapping them around the front wings and the addition of plastic bumpers that reached the wheel arches (replacing the chromed metal units with thier shorter end caps) and black B-pillar trims. On the continent, the exciting new fuel injected version Scirocco, the GTI, had been released and was available as a left hand drive import in the UK until the right hand drive version arrived in 1979 known as the GLi.
The GLi was powered by the same 1588cc fuel injected engine found in the Golf GTi and was reckoned to be as good, if not better than the Golf, due to the Scirocco having a lower centre of gravity and a more slippery shape. The 1979 GLi was joined in the UK by another fuel injected model, the Scirocco Storm that was a top of the range model featuring leather sport seats and door cards, plush carpeting that continued into the boot and a black instrument panel. Externally it was identified by flatter versions of the GLS alloy wheels and a large front fibreglass airdam. Both GLi and Storm also featured the GTi front ventilated brake discs. 1979 also saw internal revisions for the GLS, replacing the seats for cloth covered versions with headrests and revised patterns. › Continue reading
Tags: engine, mk1, Running gear and Brakes, scirocco, specification
Gearbox and clutch replacement – Paulc
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04807reduced.jpg[/img]
Always worth taking a good number of pics of the engine bay before you start, it will solve a number of problems like ‘what cable crosses where’ later on:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04809reduced.jpg[/img]
1. Soak all the bolts you’re going to undo in WD40 or similar.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04813reduced.jpg[/img]
2. Remove battery (negative, then positive terminal, then 13mm bolt holding it in).
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04814reduced.jpg[/img]
3. Drain coolant, typically by undoing bottom hose at the water pump end.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04816reduced.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04817reduced.jpg[/img]
4. Undo electrical connections on radiator. There will be a thermo switch (for the fan) and the fan’s power connection itself
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04824reduced.jpg[/img]
5. Undo remaining connections (top hose, overflow hose to header tank) and unbolt mounts at front/top. Remove radiator.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04826reduced.jpg[/img]
(Strictly, you don’t need to remove the radiator, but you do need to disconnect the cooling lines so it may as well come out and make life a lot easier).
6. If you’re coolant is in good condition, it can be saved and reused. Be careful to place the container you’ve drained it into, close enough to trip over later on in the job, but far enough away to be out of reach when more coolant comes out the car.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04828reduced.jpg[/img]
7. Undo the inlet pipework clips and remove
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04829reduced.jpg[/img]
8. Including the oil breather pipe
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04830reduced.jpg[/img]
9. Undo the fuel inlet and return connections from the metering head
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04832reduced.jpg[/img]
10. then lift the metering head up. I found the easiest way is to separate the bottom of the airbox and completely remove this, then lay the metering head on top of the engine so you don’t need to disconnect the injector lines.
11. Undo connections on starter motor. There will be a 4mm2 solenoid lead, a large lead directly to the battery (13mm nut) and 2x bolts, which are normally 6mm female hex. On the end of one of these, is a 17mm nut.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04833reduced.jpg[/img]
12. The bolts for the front engine mount (strictly, a torque reaction link) are normally tight, so you might need to use a breaker bar. Undo these and remove all of the front engine mount.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04834reduced.jpg[/img]
13. This is a job for tomorrow: my front panel is in serious need to welded repair!
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04836reduced.jpg[/img]
14. Sweep up the remains of your front panel, if needs be
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04837reduced.jpg[/img]
15. Disconnect the gear linkages and swing them out the way, this can be done from above or below.
16. Raise the car onto axle stands (you’re looking for enough clearance to get underneath the car to undo stuff, and to pull out the gearbox later on from underneath). Undo the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04839reduced.jpg[/img]
17. Unbolt the rear engine mount. The engine/gearbox will tilt a little, when this happens, but its all cool.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04841reduced.jpg[/img]
18. Check you have the top engine/transmission bolts in place! (I didn’t, and its the second VW I’ve come across which is missing them) Then unbolt the 19mm bolt from underneath.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04842reduced.jpg[/img]
19. Unbolt the inner CV joints from the gearbox (diff) flanges, its M8 12 spline. The easiest way to do it is with an impact gun, but if you don’t have one, a trick you can do is to use a trolley jack under one wheel, then put the car in gear and undo the bolts, one at a time, from the other side (take it out of gear and move the wheel around 60 deg)
20. Using an engine crane from the side, support the weight of the engine/transmission from the lifting point.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04844reduced.jpg[/img]
21. If your top engine/trans bolts are really tight, now is the time to loosen them.
22. Undo the transmission side mount. If you got step 20 right, it should just slide out nicely. If not, you might have to make a little adjustment to the height you’re holding up the engine/transmission.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04846reduced.jpg[/img]
23. Tie up the driveshafts with wire. You can tie the right driveshaft to the inlet manifold so it goes down when the engine tilts down. You can tie the left driveshaft to the brake lines, so long as its only the driveshaft itself which is being supported.
24. Lower the engine/transmission to a tilt, making sure that nothing stretches, snags, or is leaned upon too much.
25. Double check all disconnections are done (for example reversing light switch wiring). Undo the speedo drive cable from the gearbox, I find they often stick and its handy to do this once lowered, to give better access to lever it off. Be careful not to drop the drive cog into the ‘box (lift it stright up) and don’t drop the bolt into the gearbox, when you replace it onto the box!
26. Undo the top engine/trans bolts
27. Wiggle off the gearbox and catch. I find that an old tyre is ideal to ‘catch’ the gearbox on. Then withdraw from underneath the car.
28. The clutch on a VW is inside, not outside, the flywheel. Undo the 9x bolts holding the flywheel onto the pressure plate, they’re 9mm 12 sided so I needed to obtain a socket like this.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04847reduced.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04848reduced.jpg[/img]
29. Pull off your flywheel, it should come off with a wiggle. Inspect your clutch friction disc, now is the time to go to the shops and buy one if you need it. Also inspect your inner CV joints, since you’re going to the shops. Also on your shopping list could be a big tin of brake/clutch cleaner.
To be continued…
/a139/paul_c2/Dsc03436reduced.jpg[/img]I forgot to mention, step 12½ which is to disconnect the heater (coolant) lines from the engine, disconnect the pipes from the metal pipe on the engine and the flange on the side and catch the coolant as it comes out. Beware if you don’t have a plug on the hole in the bellhousing, its ideally placed to go into there!
Anyway, after returning from the shops with these:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04850reduced.jpg[/img]
30. I removed the cover and spring clip, it just clips in so thin nose pliers are all it takes to unclip.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04851reduced.jpg[/img]
31. This reveals 6x 17mm bolts which you need to undo, to remove the pressure plate from the crankshaft. Once again I used an impact driver, but there is a little trick you can do if you don’t have one. Bear in mind these bolts are one use only, since they are stretch bolts and they are also loctite’d in place.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04853reduced.jpg[/img]
32. The pressure plate is a close fit but will eventually wiggle off, to reveal this.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04854reduced.jpg[/img]
33. I took the opportunity to remove the plate too (3x 10mm nuts) and look/clean up behind there. Its handy to check the main crank oil seal, this is an ideal time to find leaks if any, and to replace it.
34. Refit the new pressure plate with the new bolts, which are supplied in the LUK kit.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04857reduced.jpg[/img]
Note that these bolts are torqued to 55lbf ft, 75Nm.
Here is a pic to show how to remove/replace these bolts without the impact gun:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/9A/Dsc02956reducedandhighlighted.jpg[/img]
Here’s the easy way to do CVJ bolts:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums
35. Clean up the new gearbox (if you’re swapping it) or the original if you’re not (optional step). Note the green spray bottle isn’t alloy wheel cleaner but brake/clutch cleaner.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04866reduced.jpg[/img]
36. Also if swapping boxes, check the bolt-on stuff, for example gear change linkage bracket, transmission mount, and also check the little dowels which interface between engine and box. If you have a dowel in both engine and trans, it won’t fit when you join them!
(This is me actually doing step 34, tightening the pressure plate bolts, with a torque wrench whilst on the car. Note the C spanner between and engine bolt and pressure plate-flywheel bolt, to prevent the engine rotating. If you need to turn the engine a little, its a 19mm bolt on the other end).
37. A new pressure plate is normally coated with grease/oil to prevent corrosion, so it needs to be cleaned off otherwise your first 200 miles are very smoky with a slipping clutch!
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04871reduced.jpg[/img]
38. Refit the flywheel observing the dowels to locate it properly, and tightening the 9mm 12 sided bolts (or you may have 11mm (?) 6 sided bolts in some locations) to 20Nm. (This is low enough that the engine normally doesn’t turn. Don’t forget to put the friction disc in, with the most sticking out part facing the gearbox. Note also the yellow clutch aligning tool.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04872reduced.jpg[/img]
39. (No pics) refit the gearbox to the engine. This is a right pain, I’d suggest you use a strong board so you can balance the trans on a trolley jack at the correct angle, and you can raise/lower the engine as needs be on the engine crane. I used a long rod through one of the starter motor bolt holes, to help. But its just a case of get them aligned, wiggle and turn the engine over a few degrees, to engage the input shaft into the friction disc.
As you’re swinging the engine/trans up, ensure the CVJs are positioned so they engage into the flanges (or are able to). I also routinely clean out and repack the CVJs with grease when I swap a clutch or gearbox.
40. ‘Refitting is a reverse of removal!!!’ but basically I did the underneath stuff:
* rear engine/trans mount
* torque up the lower rear engine/trans bolt to 55Nm
* refit downpipe to manifold
41. Here’s a little tip to tightening (torque up to 45Nm) the driveshaft bolts. With the car on axle stands, push a trolley jack under one wheel, then engage any gear, this will lock the other wheel. To rotate the other wheel, disengage the gear.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04874reduced.jpg[/img]
42. Last job while you’re underneath, (optional) is to drain and refill the gearbox oil. Drain plug is under the diff (17mm female hex):
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04876reduced.jpg[/img]
then refit it and fill as much as you can through the side level plug.
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04878reduced.jpg[/img]
The 5 speed boxes need 2.0 litres, however the earlier (before 8 Sept 1987) cases have the hole in the original place planned for 4 speeds, which means the box will only accept approx 1.5 litres. So you need to add a bit more through the speedo cable hole:
[img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a139/paul_c2/Storm/gearbox/Dsc04880reduced.jpg[/img]
43. At this point you can optionally lower the car to the ground, although I prerfer to leave it on stands so I can reach the coolant and any other connections underneath, and also once finished, check I can smoothly engage all 5 gears and reverse.
44. Reconnect everything else you disconnected, fill with coolant, etc
Tags: clutch, Gearbox, overhaul